of Maine

CHAPTER 7

Canning of Maine Sardines

BERTON S . CLARK A N D RALPH M. BERGLUND

Research a n d Quality Control Laboratory, Maine Sardine Council, Bangor, Maine

I. Raw Material 2 91

A. Maine Sardines 2 91

B. Feeding 2 92

C. The Sardine Definition 2 92

D. Migration Habits 2 92

E. Fishing Areas 2 93

II. Catch and Potential 2 93

III. Nutritional Value 2 94

A. Protein and Fat 2 94

B. Vitamins and Minerals 296

IV. Fishing Methods 2 97

V. Canning Operation 300 VI. Sterilizing Process 302

References 3 02

I. Raw Material

T h e raw material for the canning of M a i n e sardines is the Atlantic herring, Clupea harengus, known as sild in Norway, hareng in F r a n c e and hering in Germany. T h e harengus is found only in the Atlantic ocean from southern F r a n c e to northern Norway in E u r o p e (Hjort, 1913) and on the eastern shore of North A m e r i c a from D e l a w a r e to Newfoundland, Canada. (Jarvis, 1 9 4 3 ) . Clupea harengus is one of the five species of the genus Clupea that has world-wide recognition as c a n n e d sardines.

A. M A I N E S A R D I N E S

T h e Atlantic herring usually spawn w h e n they have r e a c h e d 9 to 10 inches in over-all length and are 3 to 4 years old. T h e y continue to grow for 6 or m o r e years, reaching a length of approximately 1 2 in.

( 3 0 c m . ) with a life span of up to twenty years.

T h e y are identified b y definite scale form, basal line characteristics, and radial furrows (Hjort, 1 9 1 3 ) . T h e scales of herring are loosely attached and are easily removed with normal handling. T h e y h a v e 5 8 vertebrae and 18 rays in the dorsal fin with a broadly forked tail.

Positive identification of American east coast Clupea harengus is m a d e b y a p a t c h of teeth of the vomer ( r o o f of the m o u t h ) . According to

291

2 9 2 B E R T O N S. CLARK AND R A L P H M . BERGLUND

Hildebrand ( 1 9 5 1 ) , herring are the only fish of the Clupea group found in the waters along the east coast of the United States that have such teeth.

B . F E E D I N G

M a i n e sardines, or herring, feed on small marine life comprising copepods, schizopods (shrimp-like f o r m s ) , amphipods ( s a n d fleas), embryos of gastropods, lamellibranchs, and young fish, often small herring. I n the examination of 1,500 specimens, M o o r e ( 1 8 9 8 ) found in the Eastport, M a i n e , area two kinds of food: copepods ( r e d f e e d ) appeared to constitute t h e sole food of small herring, or brit, and a large part of the feed of larger herring (5^J/² in. and u p w a r d ) . T h e copepods are macroscopic forms, usually 1/8 in. long, and constitute the chief form of red feed. T h e schizopods ( s h r i m p ) form the next class of herring feed and are considerably larger, up to 1 in. in length. A survey b y B i g e l o w ( 1 9 1 5 ) , w h i c h included the area b e t w e e n Nova Scotia and C h e s a p e a k e B a y , found copepods of the species Calanus finmarchicus most abundant with Pseudocahnus elongatus ranking next and with Temora longicornis prevailing in some areas.

C. T H E S A R D I N E D E F I N I T I O N

T h e term "sardine" has caused considerable confusion throughout the world. T h e F r e n c h , during 1912, instituted proceedings in English criminal courts against labeling Norwegian canned brisling as "Norwe­

gian Sardines" asserting that the word "sardine" could b e legally used only for the tinned article consisting of fish of the species termed in zoology Clupea pilchardus. T h i s action failed, but did clarify the descriptive definition of the term "sardine."

Dr. J o h a n Hjort ( 1 9 1 3 ) in his work, French and Norwegian Sardines, states that a sardine is "a little Clupeoid fish p a c k e d in oil that should b e labeled to include the country of its origin." T h e results of the formal legal compaint b y the F r e n c h improved the world-wide labeling of sardines, which now includes the country of origin, net weight, producer, and a more concise description of the packing media.

T h e United States has a c c e p t e d the a b o v e description and according to F o o d Inspection Decision No. 6 4 of the United States F o o d and D r u g Administration, any small clupeoid fish m a y b e c a n n e d as sardines, provided that the word "sardine" on the c a n label also bears t h e name of the country or state in w h i c h the fish are taken and prepared.

D . M I G R A T I O N H A B I T S

Migration habits of herring on the M a i n e coast are not known.

Intensive investigations b y the United States F i s h and Wildlife Service

7. CANNING O F M A I N E SARDINES 2 9 3

at B o o t h b a y Harbor, M a i n e , are designed to answer these problems. T h e source of fish is not known, b u t b e t w e e n the ages of 1 to 2 years they appear in shallow coastal water, with some evidence that they appear in limited areas rather than migrating along the coastline. Preliminary work along this line is underway, and Sinderman ( 1 9 5 7 ) states that

"lack of homogeneity in i n c i d e n c e of fungus and larval cestode para- sitization of juvenile herring cannot b e explained wholly on the basis of differential distribution of the intermediate hosts or definitive host, b u t m a y reflect lack of extensive m o v e m e n t and intermixing of herring of the western North Atlantic."

T h e most important of these problems is to know w h e t h e r the fish in one area are a distinct r a c e that visits and returns to the same area year after year or if the M a i n e herring is a mass of migrating fish moving up or down the coast. T h e answer would provide data for intelligent conservation measures w h e n such measures are needed.

E . F I S H I N G A R E A S

Herring for the M a i n e sardine p a c k are caught along the coast of M a i n e from K e n n e b u n k p o r t to Eastport, and in adjacent C a n a d i a n waters of the Passamaquoddy B a y from G r a n d M a n a n Island to Nova Scotia. Sardine canneries are located along the M a i n e coast from Portland to Eastport. T h e s e plants have b e e n located as close as possible to the productive fishing areas. T h e r e are six canneries in the Portland area and vicinity and eleven in the L u b e c - E a s t p o r t area with two additional plants on the St. Croix River. T h e remainder of the 3 5 to 4 0 operating plants are scattered along the M a i n e coast, so p l a c e d to utilize the available fish c a t c h to the best advantage.

II. Catch and Potential

T h e total c a t c h of herring in the state of M a i n e for the last seven- year period is shown in T a b l e I. T h e L u b e c and E a s t p o r t area received most of their sardines from G r a n d M a n a n Island and C a m p o b e l l o Island, C a n a d a , and they are listed as imports from there. W h e n fish are scarce in Canadian waters, those canneries process fish from the eastern coast of M a i n e . T h i s quantity varied from 12 thousand pounds in 1 9 5 2 to 12 million pounds in 1956. T h e U n i t e d States imports large quantities with a m i n i m u m of 5 million pounds in 1 9 5 5 to

55y

pounds in 1957.

Production of M a i n e c a n n e d sardines is limited b y t h e sales outlet, w h i c h averages about 2 million cases per year. T h i s appears to b e the present normal market. T h e present plant facilities could handle a pack of 4 million cases if there w e r e a m a r k e t for that quantity, and it seems

2 9 4 B E R T O N S. C L A R K AND R A L P H M . B E R G L U N D

p r o b a b l e that the waters along the M a i n e coast could provide raw material for this volume.

TABLE I

MAINE SARDINE CATCH AND PRODUCTION

Million pounds Total no. 70

Total Maine Total

catch in

Imported from

Exported to

Total Maine

bushels in Maine

pack (million Year Maine Canada Canada product® (million bu.) cases0)

1951 59.74 39.64 3.42 95.96 1.37 1.56

1952 144.66 30.34 0.01 174.99 2.50 3.23 1953 99.42 23.18 2.62 119.98 1.71 2.16 1954 133.60 28.28 4.33 147.55 2.10 2.88

1955 99.41 5.34 10.23 94.52 1.35 1.25

1956 140.47 8.23 12.08 136.62 1.95 2.22 1957 153.62 55.65 6.97 202.30 2.90 2.12 1958 170.98 38.59 14.39 195.18 2.78 2.10 1959 177.15 79.28 3.41 253.02 3.62 1.72 1960 152.33 91.02 1.01 242.34 3.46 2.00

1961 54.46 53.29 .08 107.68 1.54 0.75

1962 156.70 62.08 5.60 213.18 3.04 2.10 1963 153.32 45.45 6.30 191.47 2.73 1.64

a Total Maine catch, plus imports, minus exports. Includes fish used for pur­

poses other than sardine canning.

b 100 *4-size cans per case.

T h e usual yield of sardines from herring is 1*4 cases per bushel of raw fish, or 5 6 pounds of raw fish per case of 1 0 0 half-size cans.

III. Nutritional Value

A . P R O T E I N AND F A T

C a n n e d M a i n e sardines rate high with other protein foods as a source of energy, with an average of 1,270 calories per pound. Drained sardines, as they are usually eaten, have a protein value of 2 5 . 7 % and an energy value of 9 3 7 calories p e r p o u n d ( L a n g e , 1 9 6 2 ) .

R e p e a t e d feeding tests c o n d u c t e d b y the Seafood L a b o r a t o r y , Uni­

versity of M a r y l a n d ( B r a u c h e r , 1 9 5 4 ) , have demonstrated b y b a s a l diets that t h e r e is n o difference in the efficiency of fish protein as c o m p a r e d to protein from b e e f a n d other similar sources. T h e high protein content makes M a i n e c a n n e d sardines an excellent sources of this nutrient

( s e e T a b l e I I ) . T h e y provide an excellent source of amino acids, including those shown b y t h e work of R o s e ( 1 9 4 9 ) to b e essential for normal h u m a n metabolism, namely, leucines, isoleucine, lysine, methio­

nine, phenylalaline, threonine, tryptophan, and valine. T a b l e I I I lists the amino acids available and their content values.

7. c a n n i n g o f m a i n e s a r d i n e s 2 9 5

I n the last decade, 1947 to 1957, w h e n b e e f has sold for over 8 0 ^ per pound, M a i n e sardines h a v e furnished an e q u a l quantity of protein per p o u n d at approximately one-half the cost.

TABLE II

COMPARISON OF CANNED MAINE SARDINES WITH OTHER CANNED PROTEIN FOODS0

Average approximate composition

% %

% Fat Protein % Averag(

No. of Total % ^{(ether ex­ (N Crude calories} Canned food analyses solids Ash tracted ) X 6 . 2 5 ) fiber per lb.

Sardines in

oil 10 44.8 3.8 22.1 19.5 0.1 1,270

Sardines in

mustard sauce 37.5 3.5 11.8 20.0 — 890 Sardines in

tomato sauce 17 36.5 2.8 14.2 17.7 0.2 930

Beef roast ? 40.0 2.0 13.0 25.0 — 980

Chicken (meat

only) ? ^{38.1 2.4 8.0 29.8 — 870}

Pork, diced 1 29.3 1.5 6.5 21.8

—

Lamb, diced 1 25.7 1.4 6.3 18.2 — 590

Tuna in oil 9 45.0 1.8 17.7 24.4 — 1,180

Salmon 16 32.5 1.7 8.9 20.7 — 740

a Sources: Council on Foods and Nutrition of the Am. Med. Assoc.; U.S. Gov.

Agencies, Canned Food Reference Manual (Anonymous, 1947); Natl. Canners' Assoc.—Can Manuf. Inst. Nutrition Program.

TABLE III

AVERAGE AMINO ACID CONTENT OF CANNED MAINE SARDINES'1

Per cent of protein (calculated as Amino acid Ν X 6.25)

Isoleucine 4.7

Leucine 7.2

Lysine 7.9

Methionine 2.7

Phenylalanine 3.6

Threonine 4.5

Tryptophan 0.8

Valine 5.1

Arginine 5.5

Aspartic acid 8.6

Glutamic acid 12.9

Glycine 5.5

Histidine 2.2

<* Sources: Dunn et al (1949) and Neilands et al (1949).

2 9 6 BERTON S. CLARK AND RALPH M. BERGLUND

TABLE IV

VITAMIN CONTENT OF CANNED MARINE SARDINES IN OIL1 a

No. of C o n t e nt

Vitamin samples Maximum Minimum Average A (U.S.P. units/100 g.

entire content) 13 410 70 226

D (U.S.P. units/100 g.

entire content) 8 333 250 271

Biotin (μg./100 g.

drained fish) 8 6.0 3.0 4.0

Pyridoxine (μg./100 g.

drained fish) 8 200 130 160

Folic acid ( L . casei method) ^ g . / 1 0 0 g.

drained fish) 8 2.7 0.8 1.6

B1 2 (μ&/100 g.

whole fish) 100 — 39

Thiamine (mg./100 g.

drained fish) 19 0.042 0.003 0.018

Riboflavin (mg./100 g.

drained fish 19 0.23 0.09 0.163

Niacin (mg./100 g.

drained fish) 19 7,15 2.92 4.75

Pantothenic acid (mg./100 g. drained

fish 19 0.65 0.20 0.43

α Sources: Neilands et al. (1947); Tarr (1952).

TABLE V

MINERALS IN CANNED MAINE SARDINES IN OIL*

Content

Mineral Maximum Minimum Average

Calcium (mg./100 g.

edible weight) 447 296 354

Phosphorus (mg./100 g.

edible weight) 494 366 434

Iron (mg./100 g.

edible weight) 7.8 1.4 3.5

Iodine (mg./100 g.)

— —

Sulfur (mg./100 g.

fresh weight)

— —

Fluorine (p.p.m.

edible weight) — — 16.1

a Sources: Canned Food Reference Manual (Anonymous, 1949).

7. CANNING OF MAINE SARDINES 297

T h e oil contained in M a i n e sardines provided a good source of fats required for good h u m a n nutrition. Besides providing calories, they are rich in essential linoleic ( 1 3 % ) and arachidonic ( 2 0 % ) fatty acids

( D r e w , 1 9 5 7 ) .

About 8 5 % of the p a c k uses soya oil as the packing medium. T h i s oil is rich in linoleic acid and contributes materially to t h e E F A content of the product. I n a small part of the pack olive, peanut, or cottonseed oil is employed as the packing medium, e a c h of w h i c h contains linoleic acid.

B . VITAMINS AND MINERALS

T h e vitamin content of c a n n e d M a i n e sardines is noteworthy as shown in T a b l e I V .

M a i n e sardines are a rich source of phosphorus, iron, sulfur, fluorine, iodine, and purine as shown in T a b l e V .

IV. Fishing Methods

Sardine fishing in M a i n e utilizes three principle types of gear, namely, the stop seine, the weir, and the purse seine.

T h e weir was originally constructed of brush, woven basket-like b e t w e e n upright poles or piles. M o d e r n construction uses cotton twine, which reduces the effect of strong tides. I n areas w h e r e cotton twine rots quickly, synthetic fibers are used to extend net life. T h e r e are m a n y types of weirs used. F i g u r e 1A illustrates a simple type that allows the carrier to enter the heart for loading. T h e lead reaches to the shore and is designed to c a t c h fish traveling in b o t h directions or on b o t h sides.

S o m e weirs are located offshore and built to c a t c h fish from one direction. T h e s e types have m a n y variations in lead-fence, usually extending from the heart opening in a " V " shape w h i c h guides the fish into the heart. W e i r s are used from R o c k l a n d , M a i n e , to E a s t p o r t in areas of strong tides.

T h e stop seine ( s e e F i g . I B ) is employed to b l o c k off an inlet or cove filled with fish. It is encountered extensively from R o c k l a n d to Portland. T h e seine consists of twine with a float-line and a lead-line that rests on the bottom. T h e stop seine is also used similar to a b e a c h seine b y emptying the fish pocket into a holding pot to remove feed.

T h e holding pot is a w e i g h t e d square of twine anchored at the corners, that holds the fish until free of feed.

W h e n a stop seine has closed off a school of fish in a cove, the fish are purse-seined out of the enclosure after the feed is cleared. F i g u r e I B illustrates a stop seine with an a t t a c h e d holding pot. I n this operation the part of the stop seine that is adjacent to the holding pot is submerged,

2 9 8 BERTON S. CLARK AND RALPH M . BERGLUND

thus allowing the fish to spill into the holding pot. W h e n the fish are free of feed, they are loaded b y either overhauling the twine to a brailing p o c k e t or b y purse-seining the fish in t h e holding pot.

Lifting or unloading the weirs and stop-seine holding pots is accomplished with a purse seine using two skiffs. I n t h e case of the

( B )

FIG. 1. ( A ) Weir designed to fish both tides or from either side of lead. ( B ) Stop seine used to stop off a cove of sardines.

7 . CANNING OF MAINE SARDINES 2 9 9

weir, one end of the seine is a t t a c h e d to one side of the "lead" opening and then set across the fish entrance. T h e seine is circled within the heart, pursed and overhauled to the fish pocket. T h e carrier drops the suction hose into t h e fish p o c k e t a n d starts pumping. T h e herring a n d large quantities of w a t e r pass over a screen w h i c h removes the w a t e r over-

FIG. 2. Flexible suction hose which delivers fish from the fish pocket through the pump system to the carrier hold.

b o a r d and passes t h e fish through a m a z e of baffles w h i c h r e m o v e the scales before dropping t h e m into the fish hold. D u r i n g t h e pumping, dry salt is shoveled continuously into the hold usually in a ratio of a 100-lb. b a g per hogshead (17j4 b u s h e l s / h o g s h e a d ) of fish. ( S e e F i g . 2 . )

F i s h are purchased on a volume basis. Sardine carriers have their holds divided into 5 hogshead divisions w h i c h are permanently m a r k e d

3 0 0 BERTON S. CLARK AND RALPH M. BERGLUND

b y cutting the figures 3 / 8 in. d e e p on t h e bulkheads or stanchions. T h e s e measurements are m a d e and certified b y the S t a t e Sealer of W e i g h t s and Measures.

T h e herring are usually "feedy" w h e n caught and must b e held in the twine 2 4 to 3 6 hr. or longer until they have digested and expelled their "feed." Usually the impounded herring do not feed for 3 days.

After a 3-day period there is some evidence that they feed either from the water, if food is available, or on the algae attached to the holding pot w e b . W e i r - c a u g h t fish are held in heart of the weir or in its attached holding pocket. Stop-seine fish are usually held in a holding pocket or in the stopped-off cove if no feed is present in the water.

V. Canning Operation

T h e r e are six different packing procedures used in canning M a i n e sardines. E a c h procedure involves a h e a t treatment to lower the moisture content about 1 0 % , w h i c h firms the fish and provides less free water in the finished product.

1. T h e conventional or "flaking" m e t h o d consists of steaming the raw fish from the brine tanks on "flakes" or trays for 7 to 1 0 min.

depending upon the size of fish. T h e steamed fish are then tunnel-dried in a blast of h e a t e d air for 1 hr. at 1 1 0 ° to 1 2 0 ° F . , allowed to cool, and then p a c k e d into cans b y hand. I n addition, a small portion of the oil p a c k is smoked in a standard smokehouse to give a smoke-flavored product.

2. T h e raw-pack m e t h o d involves packing the uncooked fish into cans, then steaming the trayed cans in a steam c h a m b e r for 8 to 3 0 min. in steam at 2 1 2 ° F . on specially designed d u m p trucks. T h e cans are inverted in t h e trays b y swiveling the tray carrier on a trunnion attached to the truck. T h e cans are allowed to drain and dried in a blast tunnel for approximately one hour at 110 to 1 2 0 ° F . and subsequently oiled and double-seamed.

3. T h e can-cooked procedure is identical to the raw-pack method, except that t h e cans are filled with brine before steaming and are steamed with brine in the cans. T h e rest of the procedure is identical to raw-pack procedure.

4. T h e b a k i n g m e t h o d involves placing the fish on trays and drying and baking the fish in a steam-heated hot-air oven. T h e b a k e d fish are allowed to cool on the trays and then p a c k e d into the cans, oiled, and doubled-seamed.

5. T h e B e l g i a n cooker process involves steaming and oven-baking of the fish on a continuous chain conveyor. T h e cans, filled with raw fish, are p l a c e d in trays fitted with clamped-on covers. T h e trays attach

7. CANNING OF MAINE SARDINES 3 0 1

to the conveyor chain and the cans are filled with brine automatically before entering the steam c h a m b e r for approximately 10 min. at 2 1 2 ° F . T h e conveyor inverts the cans on the return pass to allow t h e m to drain.

T h e y then pass continuously through the baking sections for about

FIG. 3. Sardine can-closing machines, showing oiler attachment in the foreground.

3 0 min., after w h i c h they are conveyed to the oiler-closing m a c h i n e and closed while hot.

6. I n the fry-pack method, the raw herring are passed through a drying c h a m b e r on a continuous screen conveyor w h i c h discharges t h e m into shallow wire baskets. T h e fish are then fried b y passing the baskets through a hot oil bath. T h e excess oil is drained off as the baskets e m e r g e from the vat. T h e fish are then cooled to atmospheric tempera­

ture, transferred to the cans, oiled, closed, and processed.

3 0 2 BERTON S. CLARK AND RALPH M. BERGLUND

T h e major part of the p a c k uses oil as a packing medium, namely, soya, peanut, cottonseed, or olive oil. However, there is some d e m a n d for sardines p a c k e d in mustard sauce and tomato sauce. All these packing media are introduced into the cans b y means of an automatic filler attached to t h e closing m a c h i n e ( F i g . 3 ) .

VI. Sterilizing Process

T h e closed cans are sterilized in pressure retorts under time and temperature conditions a d e q u a t e for preservation of the product and protection of public health. Processes equivalent to those listed in the tabulation b e l o w have b e e n found a d e q u a t e and practical.

Oil Tomato sauce Mustard sauce 1/4 Oil size cans—(405 X 301 X 014.5)

50 min. at 240°F. 45 min. at 240°F. 40 min. at 240°F.

3/4 Regular drawn cans—(509 X 305 X 105) 3/4 Deep drawn cans—(412 X 308 X 112)

70 min. at 240°F. 63 min. at 240°F. 55 min. at 240°F.

REFERENCES

Anonymous. (1949). "The Canned Food Reference Manual," 4th ed. Am. Can Co., New York, 638 pp.

Bigelow, Η. B. (1915). Exploration of the coast water between Nova Scotia and Chesapeake Bay, 1913. Bull. Museum Comp. Zool. 59, 151-359.

Braucher, Pela. (1954). Commun. Seafood Lab., University of Maryland.

Bureau of Fisheries, U.S. Dept. Com. (1935). Our aquatic food animals. Sea Herring Mem. l-134a.

Drew, E. F. (1957). "Composition and Physical Properties of Oils and Fats Chart/' Drew, New York.

Dunn, M. S., Camien, M. N., Eiduson, S., and Malin, R. B. (1949). The nutritive value of canned foods. I. Amino acid content of fish and meat products.

7. Nutrition 39, 177-185.

Hjort, Johan. (1913). French and Norwegian sardines. Fiskeridirektorat. Skrifter.

Hildebrand, S. F. (1951). Characteristics of marine fishes. In "Marine Products of Commerce" (D. K. Tressler and J. McW. Lemon, eds.), pp. 147-180. Rein- hold, New York.

Jarvis, N. D. (1943). Principles and methods of canning of fishery products.

U.S. Fish Wildlife Serv. Research Rept. No. 7.

Lange, Ν. Α. (1962). Constants of fats, oils and waxes. In "Handbook of Chemistry," pp. 756-759.

Moore, H. F. (1898). Observations on the herring and herring fisheries of the Northeast Coast, with special reference to the vicinity of Passamaquoddy Bay.

Rept. U.S. Comm. Fish and Fisheries for 1896, 22, pp. 387-442.

Neilands, J. B., Sirny, R. J., Sohjell, I., Strong, F. M., and Elvehjem, C. A. (1949).

The nutritive value of canned foods. II. Amino acid content of fish and meat products. J. Nutrition 39, 187-202.

7 . CANNING OF MAINE SARDINES

303

Neilands, J. B., Strong, F. M., and Elvehjem, C. A. (1947). The nutritive value of canned foods. XXV. Vitamin content of canned fish products. /. Nutrition 34, 633-643.

Rose, W. C. (1949). Amino acid requirements of men. Federation Proc. 8, 546- 552.

Sinderman, Carl J. (1957). Diseases of fishes of the Western North Atlantic. V.

Parasites as indicators of herring movements. Maine Dept. Sea Shore Fisheries Research Bull. No. 27, 1-30.

Tarr, H. L. A. (1952). The nutritive value of fish meat and condensed fish solubles. V. Fisheries Research Board Can., Pacific Coast Fisheries Expt. Stas.

Progr. Rept. No. 90, 14-15.